A Cozy Kitchen’s Mixed Fruit Cobbler

I saw Adrianna Guevara Adarme, aka, @acozykitchen’s Peach Cobbler Reel the other day and I was like, “have please” — I only had about 1 lb of peaches on hand so I made a mixed stone fruit and berry version and I made, like a few, minor procedural tweaks, also somewhat based on what I had on hand, but it is absolutely delicious and I cannot wait to make it again

FILLING:
2 pounds yellow peaches, or 2 lbs of mixed stone fruit — or in my case 2 lbs of stone fruit and berries
1/4 cup brown sugar — or in my case, 1/4 cup coconut sugar
Juice from 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch kosher salt

TOPPING:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup light brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup whole milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter melted
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

INSTRUCTIONS:
First, make the filing: In a large bowl, add the fruit, brown sugar, sugar, lemon juice and vanilla. Toss it all together until combined. Allow it to sit and macerate 6-8 hours at room temp, or 12-24 in the fridge.

Then, when you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F, grease or butter a baking casserole dish that’s 9×6 or something comparable. — I used a 10 1/2” stoneware pie dish, thanks, Mom!

Then, make the toping: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, and cinnamon and add the milk, butter and mix until combined.

Add the filling to your prepared baking dish, holding the liquid back — There is no need to go crazy about this, just use a slotted stone, or make an effort to hold the liquid back while you fill the baking dish because macerating and holding the liquid back will brings out the flavor of the fruit and prevents the need for tapioca or cornstarch

Pour the topping on top of the filling. It’s ok if some of the filling is peaking through or it’s not a totally perfect on top.

Transfer to the oven and bake bake for about 50 to 55 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the top is golden brown.

Remove from the oven and serve warm with cold vanilla ice cream

A Larger Plum or Fig Torte

My grandmother wasn’t much of a cook. She could cook and she did cook three meals a day, seven days a week for more than 25 years — from when she got married in October of 1946 to when my Mom, her younger child, went to college, in September of 1971. After that, I imagine she continued to cook at least one or two meals a day for even most of the 70s, so by the time I was born, in the early 80s, she was really done.

The one thing that she continued to do was bake. I remember her making pies when I was little and then, at some point, and I don’t remember when exactly, sometime in the middle of my childhood, she started to make a plum cake.

I had no idea where the recipe came from. I had no idea how she made it. She was particular about buying “Italian plums” when they were in season so that she could make the cake — and to buy extra plums to make cakes to freeze.

By then, my grandfather had fully retired, and so they were traveling a lot, including frequently to Italy and the Mediterranean, and I think I just assumed that it was a recipe that she’d discovered on her travels. I needn’t go on about the cake; it was delicious. The plums would collapse into jammy goodness. The ratio of cake to fruit was perfect. It was what we ate for dessert on Sunday nights after our family dinner for years.

After a long while, sometime in the early 90s, when I was in my early teens, my grandmother announced she had a new dessert. A peach tart that she’d had a party that she’d very much enjoyed. She’d gotten the recipe from the friend of the friend who’d made it and she was very excited for us all to try it.

When she served it, it was terrible and almost inedible. We all tried to politely eat it but it quickly devolved when my Uncle inquired about who specifically had given her the recipe for the new “apple” dessert. My grandmother’s face froze. I jumped in to correct him and defend her, “It’s peach, Uncle D. Can’t you taste the fuzz?” I said.

”They are peeled,” my grandmother said icily and glared at both of us.

This briefly silenced the whole family and we all returned to eating the vanilla ice cream atop the terrible tart. After a few tense moments, my Mother sensed that maybe the door had been cracked. “Who gave you this recipe, Mom?” she asked, “Has she given you any other recipes?”

The way that my mother emphasized “other” sent us all over the edge and even my grandmother laughed.

But she wasn’t ready to throw in the towel. She told us how delicious it had been when she’d had it at Sylvia’s and how nice Sylvia’s friend had been on the phone reading it to her. Then she got up to get the card she’d transcribed the recipe to to see what had gone wrong.

My mother who is not much of a baker herself immediately honed in on the last instruction: Bake for 45 minutes at 450 degrees.

“Mom, that cannot be right!?!? Did you bake this for 45 minutes at 450 degrees!!!!!!?????” she asked.

After clarifying with the original author, and adjusting to 35 minutes at 350 degrees, the peach tart replaced the plum cake and became my grandmother’s go-to dessert. We ate it for about decade as well, until the early 2000s, when my grandmother began to suffer from Ahlziemer’s and her ability to bake and follow the the sequential steps of a recipe was lost.

This was just around the time that I started to really teach myself to cook and experiment with recipes and shop for local produce. To the best of my recollection, I saw the small, purple Italian plums at Eastern Market and the cake came flooding back to me.

I bought them and started googling. I knew that it was an “Italian” Plum Cake but that was about it. Fifteen years ago, the internet wasn’t what it is today. The New York Times had a few different c systems of digitized archives, behind different pay walls. The Food Network didn’t make all of the recipes from their shows available online. As Ruth has now explained, Gourmet’s recipes were on Epicurious, sometimes.

I read through a lot of recipes and none seemed exactly right but the best that I could come up with was one of Martha’s, but the texture of the cake was wrong and the ratio of plum-to-cake was wrong no matter how much I increased the amount of plums.

I probably could have asked my grandmother for her recipe but she had forgotten a lot and it had been a long time since she’d last made it. It just didn’t occur to me that would have kept the recipe. Or that if she had, she would be able to find it. I think I may have also doubted that she even would even could remember her baking days at that point. Telling her that she had once been a skilled baker would have just been too sad.

I don’t know why I never asked my grandfather. That’s what really makes no sense looking back. His memory was amazing. He definitely would have remembered the cake. My guess is, it didn’t occur to me that he’d have known where she got the recipe. Regardless, for whatever reason, I never asked him either.

My grandmother passed away in February of 2015 and my grandfather passed away a year later in March of 2016. As we slowly started to clean out their house, I came across my grandmother’s old recipe box that I’d seen on the back counter in the kitchen as a child but that had disappeared and that I’d thought had been thrown away. Flipping through it, there they were, one right after the other, Sylvia’s Peach Tart, and Marion Burros’ Plum Torte.

By then, at least 10 years had passed since I’d first started searching and I’d largely given up and resigned myself to Martha’s recipe. I immediately googled “marion burros’ plum torte.” It was comic and tragic; the great “mystery” was solved. My grandmother’s utterly unique and un-replicable cake is quite literally the most re-published recipe of all time in the NY Times.

It’s quite a testament to my grandmother that a cake that the entire country had been eating was something that I thought was uniquely hers.

Without further ado, here is my extremely minorly tweaked and upsized version of the Marion Burros’ Plum Torte. I like to add the cinnamon to the batter and also the zest of 1 lemon. And, I’ve increased the size to make it in a standard 9x13” rectangular cake pan because whether you are making this for the 1st time or the 100th, I promise, you, it will go quickly.

Ingredients:

225 grams sugar
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
180 grams unbleached all-purpose flour, or a 50:50 mix of unbleached all-purpose flour and whole wheat pastry flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon of kosher salt
Zest of 1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3 eggs
18-24 pitted purple plums, halved or 18-24 fresh figs, halved
1 tablespoon turbinado sugar and lemon juice for topping

Heat oven to 350 degrees

Cream the sugar and butter and butter and add then lemon zest and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon and continue to mix for about 1 more minute

Add the eggs one at a time — per Dorie’s Dimply Plum Cake instructions, and beat for a minute after each egg goes in

Mix the flour, baking powder, and salt in with a spatula until just incorporated

Spoon the batter into a 9x13” baking pan and place the plum or fig halves skin side up on top of the batter

Sprinkle lightly with turbinado sugar and lemon juice and bake for 40 minutes

Dimply Peach and Plum Cake

Dorie’s recipe by way of Smitten Kitchen with a few notes and expanded to a 9x13 pan.

Ingredients:

8 tablespoons, 1 stick, unsalted butter, at room temperature
215-220 grams, light brown sugar
Grated zest of 1 whole orange and 1 whole lemon
3 large eggs
120 ml flavorless oil, such as canola or safflower
2 1/4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon or cardamom
290-295 grams all-purpose flour
3-4 peaches and 3-4 purple or red plums, halved and pitted
1 tablespoon turbinado sugar

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan, dust the inside with flour, and tap out the excess.

Beat the butter at medium speed until it’s soft and creamy, about 3 minutes add the sugar, orange, and lemon zest, and beat for another 3 minutes — I don’t usually worry much about mixing times, but I paid closer attention here and did 3 minutes and 3 minutes here and I recommend it

Then add the eggs, one at a time, and beat for a minute after each egg goes in — Again, if you aren’t on a hurry, I’d recommend taking the full 9–10 minutes Dorie and Deb recommend to mix here

Still working on medium speed, beat in the oil and vanilla; the batter will look smooth and creamy, almost satiny

Sprinkle baking powder, salt, and cinnamon or cardamom over batter and beat well to combine, 20 seconds longer than seems necessary — I don’t know what “20 seconds longer than necessary” is, so I beat it for about another minute total

Add mix flour in with a spatula until just incorporated

Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top and arrange the peaches and plums cut side up in the batter — Depending on your plum size, you’ll be able to fit 12 or 15 halves on the top

Bake for about 35 to 45 minutes, or until the top is honey brown and puffed around the plums and a toothpick inserted into the cake between each plum comes out batter-free

Transfer the cake to a rack and cool for 15 minutes during which time the plums juices will seep back into the cake then run a knife around the sides of the pan to unmold the cake and the invert to cool right side up — Because the fruit is so juicy and this cake is so moist, I inverted it first on to a cutting board and then back on to my wire rack and then I left it on the wire rack, loosely tented with foil as we ate over 3 or so days

I Also ❤ Thanksgiving Links

The short version of how I celebrate Thanksgiving goes something like this: In 1946, my grandparents began celebrating Thanksgiving at my grandfather’s older sister’s house. This is a tradition that our family continued for 60 years that grew from, Thanksgiving for six people — my great aunt, her husband, and their daughter, my grandparents and my great-grandmother — to Thanksgiving for 40 people — my great-aunt, her husband, their three daughters and their husbands, their nine grandchildren, their spouses and children, my grandparents, my mother and father, my brother and I, my Uncle, and various in-laws, friends and stragglers. This was how I celebrating Thanksgiving for the first 25 years of my life at a huge pot-luck with multiple table and many, many, many dishes.

Then, in 2006, exactly 60 years after it started, it stopped. It just became too much. My great-aunt’s daughters who had taken on the mantel of hosting, began downsizing, my grandmother, who’d also cycled through as the host wasn’t able to anymore, and just like that, the tradition ended and we splintered into smaller, satellite family Thanksgivings. For the record, we all miss that huge one but it’s a huge undertaking.

For the last 13 years, Thanksgiving has been a much smaller affair. Just my immediate family, sometimes, we have a few friends and stragglers, rarely are we more than 10 or 12. But because of the legacy of the huge pot-luck, we don’t have a strict menu and all of those you-gotta-make dishes that so many people have because at the huge Thanksgiving everyone brought something and there were multiples and variations and one-offs and “I tried something new” and “I’ll bring that this year” and it was always a wonderful and endless smorgasbord of turkey, sweet potato and yam dishes, salads and green beans, carrot molds and cranberry sauces, and pies cranberry breads and cakes because we have November family birthdays, and all sort of other things that would randomly appear like Swedish meatballs and cheesecake, likely out of the concern that there wasn’t going to be enough food, but there always was.

Anyway, the result of all of this is that, again, that there isn’t a deep attachment to specific recipes or preparations in my family and we change the menu up from year to year, the benefit of which is: I’ve tried out a lot Thanksgiving recipes over the last 13 years, here are some of my favorites.

What I’m making this year:

• Fennel and Pear Salad with Parmesan and Maracona Almonds — A version of this

• Julia Moskin’s Garlic and Ginger Green Beans — I don’t think it’s necessary to blanche them and this also prevents them from getting overcooked and soft, if you want to saute them and then warm them up in the oven

• Mark Bittman’s Baked Broccoli Rabe with Parmesan — Similarly, I see no need to boil the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes before sauteing, I bake it for a bit longer, like 20 minutes instead

• Deb Perlman’s Slow Roasted Sweet Potatoes — We do these on the grill, using the grill on Thanksgiving really helps free up the oven

• Peruvian Purple Mash — I don’t have a recipe for mashed potatoes, I completely eyeball it but I’m going to try to keep track this year

• Jeff Gordimer’s Glazed Grilled Carrots — Another thing we do on the grill

• Melissa Clark’s Turkey with Anchovies and Garlic

• Deb’s Pumpkin Pie

• Something apple, last year, Erin McDowell’s ombre one, this year it may be Claudia Flemming’s Apple Crumb Crostata

• And then, frequently, brownies, chocolate pound cake, or David Leite’s Chocolate Chip Cookies — There is usually a request for “real dessert”

• Fruit Salad

• Ice cream and whipped cream

Recipes that have cycled through and That We all liked that I’m not makIng this year, But that i recommend:

• Alton Brown’s Cranberry Sauce

• Julia Moskin’s Hashed Brussels Sprouts

• Melissa Clark’s Brown Butter Corn Bread

• Gjelina’s Roasted Yams

• Kim Severson’s Roasted Potatoes with Thyme and Figs

• Martha’s Butternut and Yukon Gold Mash

• Butternut Squash Soup

• Butternut Squash Risotto from the Union Square Cookbook

• Four and Twenty Blackbird’s Brown Butter Pumpkin Pie

• Joy Wilson’s Sweet Potato Pie

• Martha’s Chocolat Kugelhopf

Apricot-Blackberry-Cherry-Peach-Pluot Pie

So this one has a little bit of a preamble and it starts with, I don’t really like cooked cherries. I’m not sure why. I’m not sure what happens when you cook cherries but something happens to the flavor and texture that I just don’t love. This happens, funny enough, with carrots too. I love raw carrots and always have them in my fridge, but I don’t generally like cooked carrots. They get too sweet and too mushy. Grilled carrots, I’m fine with.

Anyway, it’s been a absolute gangbusters cherry season here in the north east. They are everywhere and they have been amazing. About two weeks ago, they were all laid out in pints with blueberries and it got me thinking that I’ve made so many different pie and crisp fruit combinations — apple, apple-cranberry, apple-rhubarb, blueberry, blueberry-rhubarb, cherry, peach, peach-raspberry, peach-blackberry, plum, strawberry-rhubarb, but never cherry and never cherry-anything.

It’s been a busy and hot few weeks — not exactly prime baking conditions — and so I’ve been reading recipes for all sorts of cherry desserts, cobblers, pies, and clafoutis, or a reliable fruit cake with cherry instead, and I decided to make … wait for it … a pie. What can I say. The heart wants what the heart wants.

Apricot-Peach-Pluot-Cherry-Blackberry Pie

4 apricots, sliced into then crescents
2 peaches, sliced into then crescents — I used white peaches, but yellow will do fine
2 pluot, sliced into then crescents
10 ounces of sweet cherries, pitted and halved
10 ounces of blackberries, halved or quartered if they are large
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon
1 tablespoon of corn starch

Erin McDowell’s perfect pie crust, doubled

Normally, pie instructions will tell you to make the crust first and then get your fruit together while your crust spends some time in the fridge before you roll. For this, because there are so many different fruits, I’d highly recommend chopping all of the fruit and mixing it together gently with the sugar and the corn starch and allowing it to sit either at room temperature for an hour or two or in the fridge for a few hours. I find that this will help bring all of the fruit together and it allows for the cornstarch to bind.

Follow Erin’s instructions for crust, refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, and then roll

One additional comment on this that I keep meaning to make a very short Instagram video of, and that’s, obviously, pie crust is notoriously difficult — I think Deb’s photos here are really helpful and then, after you finish cutting the butter into the flour either with your fingers or with a pastry cutter:

Make a well in the center of the mixture. Add 3 tablespoons ice water and mix it in by tossing the flour in the bowl.

This is absolutely freaking genius. So in the video, Emily tosses the flour, which you can see at the 1 minute mark, but since my mixing bowls have handles, I actually toss the whole bowl with an even push forward and toss action and what happens is the clumps of butter and flour begin to attract the loose flour and tiny pieces of butter, slowly forming into larger and larger clumps of dough which you can then easily press into a single disc of dough

Measure your dough into two equal balls, press into discs, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes

Roll out the two pie crusts, press one into the bottom of the pie plate, spoon the fruit mixture with a slotted spoon in discarding any juice that may have gathered at the bottom of the bowl, gently place the second crust on top, crimp the edges together and bake for 60-70 minutes at 350 degrees